Sustainable or not? The reality of clothing donations

By Ivan Chen

Many people may believe that donated clothing goes to other people in their community, but that’s not always the case. (Credit: PDPics/Pixabay)

​Dropping off clothing at a donation bin feels like the right thing to do: people can declutter their spaces, the clothes are seemingly diverted from landfills and the donated items can be worn again by someone else. Since clothing donation bins can be found around places like schools, parking lots and plazas, the good deed can feel effortless. But what happens after those clothes are dropped off is a bit more complicated than many people realize. 

Once clothes have been dropped off at donation bins, they are collected and sorted, with only clothes in good condition and with resale potential entering thrift stores. About half of donated clothes make it to stores, and only half of that will actually sell. In other words, only a small amount — less than a quarter — of donated clothes are resold and reused locally. 

A few things can happen to the remaining clothes. Clothes that are not suitable for use, due to factors like severe damage or stains, often end up in landfills. Some clothes might be repurposed into new products, like industrial rags, blankets, floor mats or car-seat fillings. Many others are sold to clothing graders who ship them abroad to buyers in countries across Africa, Asia and Latin America. From there, the clothes go to local retailers and are sold to consumers. Canada plays a role in this system. In 2023, around $180 million in used clothing was exported to overseas markets from Canada. 

There are significant environmental impacts associated with these operations. Transporting all these clothes across continents contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, but the greatest impacts are seen in the countries that receive them. For example, in Ghana’s capital, Accra, millions of used clothes from Western countries arrive in the city each week, flooding its clothing market. However, upwards of 40 per cent of the clothes received are not suitable for use and are discarded in both legal and informal landfills or burned. Clothes can also end up clogging sewer systems or being dragged out to the ocean during the rainy season. 

Similar issues have arisen in Tunisia, where large amounts of used clothing enter the country’s local markets, but only a small portion ends up getting sold. The rest ends up in landfills or bodies of water. Compounding these issues, many clothes nowadays are partially or entirely made of synthetic materials, mainly plastic. When these clothes break down, they can release microplastics into the environment.

A major factor in this problem is overconsumption. With fast fashion, clothes are mass-produced and more disposable than ever before. Not only are they cheap and tend to fall apart fast, but they also fall out of trend just as quickly. This model is unsustainable and will only worsen without change.

So, what can be done? One of the most important steps is to be more mindful when buying clothes. Donated clothing that gets sold can help charity organizations fund their programs and services, but the reality is that they receive far more clothes than they can manage. It’s also clear that many donated clothes end up as trash elsewhere, which pollutes the environment. 

In many ways, donation bins have become the solution to people’s impulsive shopping purchases without confronting the problem of overconsumption. Buying less and being an overall more conscious consumer reduces demand and stops this environmentally harmful system at its roots. 

If a garment is damaged, make the effort to repair it on your own, at a repair café or through a tailor. Do clothing swaps with family, friends or with people in your community. If clothes have to be donated, consider looking for local thrift stores, shelters or hospitals — there might be a better chance that the clothes and funds generated from sales are allocated to those in need. Examples in Toronto include the Centre for Addiction and Mental Health’s (CAMH) Suits Me Fine boutique, Double Take Thrift Store and Sanctuary.

At the end of the day, the most sustainable garment is the one you already own. Donating clothes can still support a circular economy, but only if it’s paired with mindful consumption and greater consideration for where they might end up.

Edited by Jess Blackwell